There are many other ways you can cut your energy use and save money, but we will cover the big ones here. Since summer is fast approaching we will be focusing on cooling costs in this article as well as ways you can save money on lighting costs.

Minka Aire Gauguin Ceiling/Patio Fan F581-ORB

Cooling Your Home While Saving Energy

Central air conditioning is a great comfort in the hot summer months.  However, there are plenty of ways you can reduce your usage of a central AC unit and save money without sacrificing comfort.

The first and foremost way to save money is simply to run your AC unit less. Ceiling fans are a great way to make your home feel cooler while raising the temperature on the thermostat. A central AC unit uses about 46 times as much energy as a ceiling fan. Installing a ceiling fan can save you money in both the winter and the summer. For more information on saving money with a ceiling fan see our article here.

Consider installing drapes or reflective window film to block out solar heat. Solar heat can increase the temperature in your rooms by as much as 10 to 20 degrees. Your AC unit would then have to work harder to remove that heat.

Having adequate insulation in your attic can result in serious savings in both the summer and winter. You should have at least 8 inches of insulation in your attic. Cellulose insulation is preferable.

Aside from running your AC less you can also save money by replacing or cleaning the filters. Dirty filters cause your AC unit to work harder to produce the same amount of cooling. On those hot, sunny days your AC condenser can get hot due to the sun which then requires more energy to produce cool air. Plants shade trees near your AC condenser can reduce the unit’s electricity cost by as much as 10%.

Saving Money On Your Lighting

The first thing that pops into most people’s minds when they want to save money on lighting is to switch the bulbs in their home to CFLs or LEDs. Incandescent bulbs are really small heaters that produce a small amount of light. About 90% of the energy used by an incandescent goes to producing heat while only 10% produces light. This is heat your AC unit must then remove.

With prices falling on both CFLs and LEDs, this can be a great option to light your home and save money. Make sure you get CFL bulbs that are Energy Star certified. LEDs can pay for them selves in only a few years and last for up to 20 years. To help decide between CFL bulbs or LEDs, read our comparison here.

Turning lights off when you leave a room is a good idea. That is unless you are using CFLs. Turning CFL bulbs on and off shortens their lifespan and will cost you more money in the long term. If you are using CFL bulbs, you should only turn the lights off if you will be out of the room for more than 15 minutes. LEDs do not have the same limitation.

Installing dimmers can save you money if you do not require the full brightness of a light bulb all the time. Motion sensors are another great way to save money on your lighting.  Motion sensing controls can turn the light on when you enter a room or off when you leave. Motion sensors are great if you have kids that tend to forget about turning the lights off. There are also timed switches for room such as your bathroom that will not be used for a long period of time.

Utilizing natural light is another way you can cut your electric bill. Using a skylight or windows to light your home instead of light bulbs can save you plenty of money. Make sure you install reflective solar film so the windows do not let in heat.

What about outside your home? Many people like to use lights for security and to light paths they use frequently. For outdoor lights, you should consider motion sensing lights, LED lights or solar lights. Solar lights would be the best since they don’t add any cost to your electric bill and don’t require any wiring.

Have any tips for saving energy in the summer? Have questions about which light fixtures you should use to save the most money? Leave a comment or give us a call.

The post Saving Energy in the Summer appeared first on Lighting and Locks Blog.

Here at Lighting and Locks, we're always ready and alerzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz....

In case you couldn't tell, we're all pet-lovers here at Lighting and Locks.com.  Our little furry friends are more than just companions, they're part of our families, and we want to do everything possible to keep them happy and safe.  Pet-proofing your lighting might not be on the top of pet-owners' to-do lists, but it is an important consideration to keep your four-legged friends, and your lights, safe.

Here's some hand tricks and tips for pet-proofing lighting for new and existing homes.

Pet-Proofing when Buying Lighting for a New Home

Temptations- they aren't just for humans anymore.  While we may be able to control our urges to leap off a balcony and swing wildly on a chandelier, screaming at the top of our lungs, our pets don't have the same willpower.  If you're going to have a chandelier hanging in a foyer, or above the living room, make sure it's high enough and far enough away that even the bravest cat will think three times before wasting one of his nine lives on a running leap.  Lower chandeliers and ones close to ledges or railing are irresistible to kitties, especially if a random breeze through the house will send the fixture swinging ever so slightly.  If you have to have railing near a chandelier in your home design, try and pick out railing that's more rounded and steep for pet-proofing, giving Fluffy less of an urge to go walking on it.

When buying undercabinet lighting, always go with LED fixtures for pet-proofing.  Cats and small dogs love warmth, and nothing provides warmth better than incandescent undercabinet lighting.  Unfortunately, incandescent undercabinet lighting also tends to be too hot to touch the glass cover, and depending on the size of your pet, they may want to try and get as warm as possible by getting right up next to the undercabinet light.  This can lead to small burns for your furry friend.  LED lighting produces a small amount of heat, but nowhere near enough to burn anything.

"Hey Lil' Bub, do cats jump on everything they can?"

Dangling chains and string are also a big temptation for kitties and doggies, no matter how high up in the air they are.  Consider using remote controls or wall-mounted controls for pet-proofing your ceiling fans instead of using the pull-strings.  If you have to use the pull strings, be sure to put in CFL or LED lights so your pet won't run the risk of getting burned.

Also, keep all shelves and book cases out of jumping distance from a ceiling fan.  A cat might not jump on the fan when it's on, but as soon as it spins down, those blades will look like walking planks to kitty if he has a good enough jumping point.

Use flush mount fixtures instead of semi-flush mount, as even just a little space peeking out can sometimes cause a cat to do his best Tarzan impersonation.

Pet-Proofing Lighting in Existing Homes

Speaking of strings and chains, cords are also a favorite snack of cats and dogs everywhere.  In fact, I found two little teeth marks on my laptop cord just last night!  Bundle cords together whenever possible for pet-proofing, especially behind the entertainment center.  The thicker the wrap of cords, the less likely Spot will want to chew on them instead of his chew-toy.  You can buy Velcro cord wrappers just about anywhere, or you can even use twist ties.

"Hey Grumpy Cat, have any advice for our readers?"

Tuck power cords behind objects whenever possible for pet-proofing so they're out of site or not dangling.  For any lamp (or other) cords that must be exposed, running lemon juice for cats and bitter apple flavoring for dogs along the cord is a great deterrent.  It might illicit a nibble, but that one nibble will be enough for your pet and they will find something else to chew one.  Use only just enough for a bitter flavor, though.  And whatever you do, NEVER use onions or onion juice.  These are very bad for your furry friends!

Switch out any undercabinet lighting that has incandescent bulbs with ones with LED bulbs for pet-proofing.  Also, do the same for any fixture a cat might be tempted to jump in, such as a large pendant bowl fixture or semi-flush.  Remember, a cat never asks "Would I jump in it?", he always asks "CAN I jump in it?" and anything from a "maybe" to a "yes" guarantees there will be jumping involved.

I think we'll let this cat go wherever he wants...

Table Lamps can be held down with double-sided tape, silicone on non-wood surfaces, or 3M removable adhesive for pet-proofing.  Granted, none of the above are going to save your lamp from a full-scale run and jump, but they will save it from the occasional tail-wag or kitty-rubbing.  Sadly, there's not much you can do for pet-proofing a floor lamp short of anchoring it to the floor.  Just try and keep it off to the side and make sure it has a cloth shade and CFL or incandescent bulb so if it does get knocked over (scratch that, WHEN it gets knocked over), your pet will be safe from broken glass or burns.  Though, maybe not  from your wrath when you get home.

We all love our pets and only want the best for them.  The main rule of thumb in pet-proofing is asking yourself "are they going to be curious about this?" and always answer with the word "yes."

Stay tuned for more lighting tips from the lighting experts at Lighting and Locks, as well as gratuitous pictures of famous internet pets!  And for the sake of everyone's lawyers, only Dutch, the Lighting Cat (the one asleep on the keyboard), endorses Lighting and Locks.  Colonel Meow, Grumpy Cat, and Lil' Bub do not endorse and are not affiliated with Lighting and Locks.  We just like their pictures.

The post Pet-Proofing Your Lighting appeared first on Lighting and Locks Blog.

Learn about the ways a ceiling medallion can help your decor!

If you’ve run into either of these scenarios, you need a Ceiling Medallion:  You’ve just bought your brand spankin’ new chandelier from Lighting and Locks, it’s arrived from FedEx, and you’ve taken down your old, chrome, polished-brass and seaweed colored chandelier from 1959 that you’ve hated ever since you bought the house.  There’s a big, ugly hole in the ceiling with wires sticking out, but that’s okay, because the new chandelier will cover it.  But to your horror, after wiring up the new chandelier, it’s canopy is too small for the hole!  Horror of horrors!

Or, your electrical wiring hole is off center from where you need to hang the chandelier, so you swag your chandelier over.  But it just looks so… PLAIN draped over like that, with nothing but a hook to hang it on when the fancy canopy is several feet away.

It happens.  It really does.  You’re not the only one, I promise.  But fortunately, there’s an easy fix!

Just what are Ceiling Medallions?

Ceiling Medallions are round, decorative medallions made of plaster that can be painted or can come already painted.  They’re light enough so that you can stick them on the ceiling with ease (via your favorite ceiling adhesive), but sturdy enough to last for as long as your chandelier lasts.  Ceiling Medallions come in all sorts of sizes and with many decorative patterns, so you can find one as unique as your personal style.

Ceiling Medallions to the Rescue!

This swagged chandelier really needs a Ceiling Medallion to help spice it up!

12″ and 18″ ceiling medallions are perfect to help cover up that large electrical wiring hole, and your chandelier’s canopy will fit right on top (or technically, underneath) of the ceiling medallion.  They add a nice decorative flair to your ceiling, and no one will ever know that ugly hole was ever there!

Ceiling Medallions also spice up that boring swag hook your chandelier is draped on.  Paint to match your chandelier or ceiling.

And, of course, you don’t have to need either of the above reasons to use a ceiling medallion, as they make great accent pieces for any chandelier! Ceiling medallions can be used to match trim coloring and design, or to accent ceiling design in houses with carved and decorative ceilings.

Here’s a picture of Lil’ Bub for no reason!

No matter what your decor or design plan, a ceiling medallion can add that little touch that makes your room “finished.

Find all the ceiling medallions you could ever want here at Lighting and Locks.com.  And here’s a picture of Lil’ Bub, because Lil’ Bub loves you, and so do we!

The post Ceiling Medallions – A Chandelier’s Best Friend appeared first on Lighting and Locks Blog.

Why Are Some Products Rated And Others Are Not?

Products must earn the Energy Star label by conforming to energy efficient requirements established by Energy Star specifications. Some of the requirements are listed below:

• Product categories must offer significant energy savings nationwide.
• Features and performance cannot be compromised in favor of increased energy efficiency.
• If the products costs more than non-energy efficient counterparts, consumers must be able to recover the extra cost in a reasonable time through energy savings.
• Energy efficiency must be based on non-proprietary technologies.

Which Products Should Be Replaced With Energy Star Alternatives?

Refrigerators are often one of the best appliances to replace to save on your utility bills. The older your refrigerator, the more you will save. There is a convenient savings calculator here. Appliances are a great choice to replace since they often compose a great amount of your energy bill.

Another important category to look at is your lights and ceiling fans. You can already save money by using ceiling fans, but you can save even more by purchasing an energy efficient model. Replacing incandescent light bulbs with LEDs is a good idea, but you can save even more money if you install Energy Star light fixtures inside and outside of your home.

How Much Can I Really Save?

First you should look at your last electric bill to see how much you pay for electricity. You can also check here for state averages. You will recover your costs much faster in some states. 35-40% of the an average home’s electric bill goes toward lighting alone. If you electric bill was $200, that is $70-$80 a month for lighting. Let’s assume you switch from incandescent bulbs to LED bulbs which use about 1/5 as much electricity. You would save between $14 and $16 a month. If you installed Energy Star light fixtures in addition to LED bulbs you could save significantly more.

Next week we will have a full list of items you can replace with Energy Star products to save money in your home.

The post Energy Star: What Is It And Why Should I Care? appeared first on Lighting and Locks Blog.

Patio and Deck Lighting creates a great ambiance.

The world is a dark and scary place.  And it’s a lot scarier and darker at night, when it’s um… darker, because of that whole no-sun thing going on for nine hours.  Who knows what lurks out in the night?  Lions?  Tigers?  Bears?  Dick Cheney with a pellet gun?  Let me tell you, entertaining friends and family out on your patio is no fun when Dick Cheney appears out of the dark.  This is one of the many, many reasons why choosing the right patio and deck lighting is so important.  Okay, it’s not really, but again, work with me on this, I get paid by the word, after all.

Choosing the Voltage for Your Patio and Deck Lighting

Now, I know you’re all ready to get to the nitty gritty of different lights, but there are two different types of voltage for Patio and Deck Lighting that you need to consider before deciding on the fixtures themselves:  Low Voltage, or 12V, or Line Voltage, or 120V.

What do you mean, you don’t care and you’ll let the electrician handle it?  It’s important stuff for your pocketbook!  Trust me, this isn’t like the Dick Cheney lurking in the darkness thing.  This is actually really important and not a figment of my imagination like most things.

Low Voltage Patio and Deck Lighting is the ideal choice for a detached patio or deck, or really anywhere in my humble opinion.  There’s almost no risk of shock due to the low voltage and no stringent electrical codes for installation.  The downside of Low Voltage Patio and Deck Lighting is that they all share the same voltage from the transformer if they’re on one line, so if you have a lot of lights, further down the chain might seem a little more dim than closer to the transformer.

Line Voltage Patio and Deck Lighting has consistent lighting without dimming throughout, but since it runs off the same 120V as your house, it is subject to a lot of codes and regulations for installation, which can be a headache for you, your electrician and builder.  Well, not for your electrician and builder, they’ll gladly take the extra money, but it can definitely be a headache for your pocketbook to make sure everything is up to code.  Don’tcha love government regulations?  (insert smiley face).  However, Line Voltage Patio and Deck Lighting also includes rope lighting, which eliminates all of the aforementioned pain.

The Different Kinds of Patio and Deck Lighting

Rope Lighting is an easy Patio and Deck Lighting solution.

The easiest and most common form of Patio and Deck Lighting is rope lighting, which is a line of bulbs encased in a rubber tube that can run in strands up to 150 ft and can be cuttable in lengths of 1.5 feet.  Rope Lighting comes with a standard electrical plug which will go into any outside outlet you have, and is weatherproof and safe.  And easy!  Little plastic clips and penny nails are all you need to mount it in place, and you can easily do an entire deck in an hour or less.  The downside of rope lighting is that if any of the bulbs go out, there’s no way to replace them without replacing the whole strand.  However, most rope lighting is guaranteed for many, years of use.

Post-Cap lights make great task lights!

Post-cap Lights are the next form of patio and deck lighting, and they sit on top of any posts in the railing of your deck.  Putting several of these around your deck will not only provide great illumination, but will highlight the beauty of your deck, as well.  These are great for decks that are “action-oriented,” and provide great task lighting.  The downside to post-cap lights is they can be right in the line of sight if you’re sitting down, and can be annoying if you’re trying to kick back in a chair outside and relax at night if you have a lot of them put up.

Side-Mount Lights also add great ambiance!

Side-mount Lights for patio and deck lighting is a great alternative if you find you may  have to put up too many post-cap lights.  These lights mount to the side of the deck post, and come in many decorative styles.  The downside to these type of lights is they may not provide quite enough lighting for task lighting, but that can be offset by other light sources.  Or, coming out of left-field here, throw up some landscape spotlights to highlight nearby trees if they’re close to the deck.  The light will both accentuate the tree and be thrown back in the opposite direction toward the deck, providing great task lighting.

Recessed Lights are great for stairs.

The final type of patio and deck lighting is recessed lighting.  These lights fit inside posts and stairs, providing great light without being too noticeable during the daytime.  They do have the same drawback as side-mount lights in that you’ll probably need a little more lighting for tasks, but they do provide a great ambiance and are available with many different types of grills and plating to suit any style.  Recessed Lighting is also best for using on stairs, though you’ll want to make sure that you don’t have too many lights to blind someone walking up the stairs while also making sure you don’t have too few that will leave gaps for shadows and uncertain footing.

“I hate choosing Patio and Deck Lighting.”

No matter what you choose, Lighting and Locks has all the styles and types you’ll need to complete any project.  And while Grumpy Cat may hate you, Lighting and Locks loves you!  Well, the people at Lighting and Locks do.  Lighting and Locks is just a website, and as such, has no feelings either way toward you.  But we do, and we’d love to help you on your next project!

The post Patio and Deck Lighting – Your Handy Guide to Winning Friends and Influencing Enemies through Your Deck and Patio Lighting appeared first on Lighting and Locks Blog.

Fixing a Squeaky Ceiling Fan

There can be many reasons a ceiling fan would produce a squeak or other noise. Most likely it is a loose screw or just poor quality parts.

It would not be a bad idea to take this opportunity to clean your ceiling fan. Remove dust from the blades, especially the top, as well as the motor housing. If you have a can of compressed air you can use it to clean dust out of the motor housing. If you have a duster with an extendable handle they are very helpful for cleaning your ceiling fans.you do anything, however, turn off your ceiling fan and wait until the blades have expended all of their momentum. Find a sturdy ladder to stand on while you attempt to remedy the squeaky ceiling fan.

Find your screwdriver, usually a Phillips, and tighten the screws on top of the motor that connect the fan to the junction box. Note that this will require you to remove the canopy that covers these screws. It is unlikely that loose blades will cause a squeaky noise, but it would not be a bad idea to make sure the screws holding the blades and blade arms are tight. If you have an installed light kit, be sure that all of the components are snug.

Turn your fan back on to check if the squeaky has been resolved. Run the fan at higher speeds to through test the fan. If you bought a cheaper fan, it may just be part of the poor design. Low quality fans sold at home stores are likely to wear out quicker than high quality ceiling fans. If the fan is not wobbling, the motor is probably wearing out and there is nothing you can do except replace it. Consider buying a high quality ceiling fan that will last longer as a replacement.

If your ceiling fan does wobble, you will want to purchase a balancing kit from a hardware store to balance it. Ceiling fan blades can become unbalanced for a number of reasons and could potentially cause your ceiling fan to squeak and shorten your fan’s useful life.

What You Should Not Do

Many people suggest oiling your ceiling fan’s parts to eliminate a squeaky noise. You will not be able to oil the bearings as they are sealed. Oiling will not help your squeaky ceiling fan problem.

If you need help selecting a ceiling fan, please see our Ceiling Fan Buying Guide or give us a call.

The post Squeaky Ceiling Fans and How To Fix Them appeared first on Lighting and Locks Blog.

Moving Toward Energy Efficient Light Bulbs

The Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007 pushed manufacturers to begin phasing out high energy bulbs in favor of more energy efficient alternatives. Newer light bulbs must use 25% less energy and the packages must clearly indicate important information such as brightness, operation costs and expected life of the product. Some people have chose energy efficient incandescent bulbs, however, many people are considering higher efficiency light sources such as CFLs and LED bulbs.

What are CFLs?

Everyone has seen the long tubular fluorescent lights installed in schools, hospitals, commercial locations and many garages. Compact fluorescent(CFL) bulbs are a smaller, spiral version made to fit in common light fixtures around the home. CFLs can be as much as 25% more efficient than incandescent bulbs and last 10 times as long. CFLs provide the same amount of light as incandescent bulbs, but use less electricity to do it. CFLs are not much more expensive than traditional incandescent bulbs, so they are an affordable alternative.

CFLs are not perfect of course. CFLs are sensitive to extreme temperatures and are not recommended for enclosed fixtures. If you want to use a CFL in an enclosed fixture, be sure it is rated for that purpose. CFLs also are not suitable for areas where they will be turned on and off frequently. On/off cycling can shorten the life of CFL bulbs, reducing your savings. As everyone has heard, CFLs also contain mercury and so must be handled with extreme care should they break.

What are LEDs?

Light emitting diodes(LEDs) have been around for quite some time. Anytime you see an indicator light on your DVD or other electronic devices, that is an LED. LED bulbs are common in electronic devices because they do not produce a large amount of heat and they use very little energy, even less than CFLs. In fact, LEDs use 20%+ less electricity than CFLs and last up to 10 times longer. LEDs usually do not contain any toxic chemicals and are suitable for locations that may have the light turned on and off frequently.

LEDs tend to be very small, so when you buy a LED bulb it will actually contain a large number of individual LEDs. The only downside to LEDs are the price. Prices can range from $15 to over $50 per bulb.

Should you buy CFL or LED bulbs?

Trying to decide between CFLs and LED bulbs can be a challenging decision. There is no simple answer, it really depends on the intended use. If you want a bulb you can dim, you will most likely want to go with a LED instead of a CFL. There are CFLs that can work with dimmers, though. Read your packaging on both LEDs and CFLs to make sure it is dimmable.

If you have children or pets, the harmful chemicals in CFLs could be dangerous should the light be broken. Light fixtures that may get knocked over or bumped should certainly have LEDs rather than CFLs.

CFLs are much cheaper than LED bulbs, so if you are looking for an affordable, quick fix, CFLs are a good choice. CFLs generally pay for themselves in less than one year. If you are wanting a bulb to last for many years, and you are okay with a longer payback period, LED bulbs are a great investment. If you have any questions about which bulbs is best for your situation or if you want to find Energy Star certified light fixtures, give us a call.

The post LED Bulbs or CFLs? appeared first on Lighting and Locks Blog.

Traditional Under-Cabinet Lighting

Traditional Under-Cabinet Lighting usually consists of incandescent bulbs in a long strip.  The bulbs are usually Xenon, Halogen, LED, or fluorescent, and the light can be extremely bright.  The strips can be hard-wired or adapted for plug-ins, and can be chained together to form longer rows or to match 90 degree angles.  Halogen and Xenon bulbs can be easy to find at your local hardware store or favorite online retailer, while sometimes the fluorescent bulbs may be a bit harder to find, depending on the size used.  The Lights can be dimmed (except for the fluorescent), and most Xenon or Halogen light bars come with two different brightness settings:  bright, and super blind-you-like-the-sun bright (or super-happy-funtime-bright in Japan).  The downside of Xenon and Halogen light bars is the heat they put out.  They usually have a plastic cover over the bulbs to shield you from the heat, but it can still get hot.  Enough to burn your fingers hot, even with the shield.  Also, over time, if the plastic shield is of lower quality, it can become brittle and yellow from the heat.  Also, the bulbs tend to burn out quicker than a regular incandescent light bulb due to the heat.  With a fluorescent light bar, you don’t have to worry about the heat, but you lose dimming capability. LED strip lights combine the best of Halogen/Xenon and Fluorescent, but can be more expensive.

LED Strip Under-Cabinet Lighting

LED Strip Tape Lighting

One of the newest products in recent years for under-cabinet lighting is LED strip tape.  Simply put, LED strip tape is a set of LED bulbs with sticky tape on the back that stick up wherever you want them to go.  They can be hardwired or plugged in, and are customizable in length.  In fact, the installation on it is so easy, you really don’t even need an electrician, as everything (except hard-wiring) is simply plug and go.  LED strip tape is fully dimmable and comes in a variety of color temperatures.  The downside of LED strip tape is that it is a bit more expensive than a light bar.  About $15 a foot is a good estimate.  However, LED strip tape pays for itself in the first year due to the low cost of usage and the fact it’s guaranteed for years, some up to 7 years!  Another downside would be if a light ever goes out, you would have to replace the whole run of tape since the lights aren’t interchangeable.  We’ve been selling this for over a year now, and I have yet to see one go out, though.  Also, it is a bit on the non-pretty side to look at, but chances are you will never, ever see it.

Legrand Track Under-Cabinet Lighting Systems

Legrand Adorne LED under-cabinet systems

Now, the Legrand Adorne under-cabinet lighting systems are the best you can get.  Not only do they provide various lighting options, such as retractable puck lights or add-on light bars, but they also provide convenience for other parts of your life, as well.  You can mount your tablet computer on the cradle and have a place to keep it safe above your counters while you work on a recipe.  You can attach speakers in the interchangeable outlets and wirelessly stream music over a bluetooth connection.  You can insert plugins for your USB devices.  You can also dim your lights.  Your imagination is the only limit.

The Legrand Adorne under-cabinet lighting systems do tend to be more expensive than either traditional light

“Is this blog post over? Good. I hate multi-part blog posts.”

bars or LED strip tape, but the added convenience and value more than make up for the cost.  Also, all the options can be a little confusing, but give us a call, and we’ll be glad to help you get sorted out!  Also, Legrand has a service where if you give them your blueprints, they’ll show you exactly what you need!

No matter what you choose, count on Lighting and Locks for all the best deals on under-cabinet lighting.  And Grumpy Cat pictures.  We always have Grumpy Cat pictures.  Though, as always for our lawyers, Grumpy Cat does not endorse Lighting and Locks because Grumpy Cat hates everything.

The post Under-Cabinet Lighting – Choosing From the Options appeared first on Lighting and Locks Blog.

Choose the right under-cabinet lighting for your kitchen!

The dark spaces inhabiting your home can be scary places.  Who knows what evil lurks in those blackened pits of despair?  And there are none so insidious as those dark spaces under your cabinets.  (No, really.  I promise.  Okay, just go with it, okay?  Please?)  I mean, without light there, how can you tell if you put in that dash of oregano or not?  Where did those chops of onion go that flew off your cutting board?  And is the cookie jar REALLY that empty?  These are all very important questions for those who dwell in your kitchen, and choosing the right under-cabinet lighting can make a world of difference.

Things to Consider When Choosing Under-Cabinet Lighting

There are three things to keep in mind when you are choosing your under-cabinet lighting.  First, measure the depth of the lip underneath your cabinets.  Now, some people don’t mind if their lights stick out a little bit from that lip.  OCD people, such as myself, nearly have a panic attack.  Remember, your lights will go all the way to the wall on your cabinets and plan accordingly as to whether you mind the light sticking out or not.

Next, you’ll want to think about for your under-cabinet lighting is color temperature, especially if you’re thinking about CFL or LED lighting.  That’s the Kelvin rating on the light box, usually between about 2000 and 4500.  The lower the temperature, or Kelvin rating, the closer the light will be to the light of a regular light bulb.  The higher the temperature, the closer it will be to looking like natural daylight, or a standard fluorescent.  It may not seem quite so important now, but trust me, an incorrect Kelvin rating on your light or bulbs can turn your beautiful countertop into an ugly mess, so if you can, try out different types of light on your counters to see what works the best.

Finally, you’ll want to consider temperature in general.  Xenon and Halogen bulbs provide plenty of light, but can get extremely hot and make anything underneath them pretty warm after awhile.  CFL and LED lighting, however, give off almost no heat/wasted energy, but are more expensive.

“I hate under-cabinet lighting, so I’ll just hide in this shopping bag.”

Personally, I have LED for my under-cabinet lighting for both the look and so I don’t burn the crud out of my hands on accident.  But your mileage (and heat tolerance) may vary.

Next post, we’ll talk more about the different types of under-cabinet lighting and weight the pros and cons of each.  Until then, live long and prosper, and enjoy the obligatory Grumpy Cat photo.  And as always, Grumpy Cat does not endorse Lighting and Locks, because Grumpy Cat hates everything.

The post Under-Cabinet Lighting- Choosing the Right Lighting appeared first on Lighting and Locks Blog.

Ceiling fans can accentuate your style and save you money all year round. If you are curious you can find out how ceiling fans save you money or if you need help selecting the best one you can read our ceiling fan buying guide. Of course after you have bought your perfect fan you will have to install it. Don’t worry we can walk your through this too.

Preparation

The first thing you need to do is find your ceiling joists or other support. Measure to make sure the clearance between the fan blades and the floor will be at least 7 feet. Also note that many ceiling fans are heavy and may weight forty pounds or more. Be sure that you can lift them or recruit someone to help you. Most importantly, make sure you have an existing junction box to connect your new ceiling fan to. If not you may have to hire an electrician to add the needed electrical components. Finally, make sure you know how to turn your electricity off to the circuit you will be installing the ceiling fan will be on.

Unpacking and Assembly

Assembly will vary depending on the model of your ceiling fan. Follow the instructions that come with your fan to complete the assembly. The directions for assembly will be for general purpose assembly. If you feel you can properly assemble your fan with just the instructions that it came with you can skip to the next section.

• After removing the components from the box, locate the bundle of wires, usually at the top of the motor and separate them.
• You will need to push the wires through the hanger ball and down rod if you have one. You can let the downrod rest on top of the motor coupling.
• There will be a set screw on top of the motor coupling. Loosen this screw enough to install the downrod in it. Be sure to tighten the screw until it is secure. If this screw is loose your fan may wobble.
• You will need to secure a flange to each blade using the grommets and screws included. Do this for each fan blade.
• Attach the blade assemblies/arms to the motor hub using the provided screws. Do not tighten the screws all the way until you have all the blade assemblies attached. At that time you can tighten the screws fully.

Installing Your Ceiling Fan

Before you move further be sure that the electricity is turned off. If you do not verify that the power is off you could be electrocuted.

• After you have verified that the electricity is off, attach the mounting bracket to the outlet box. Be sure that it is secure and then pull the wires through the center hole.
• Get assistance if you are not confident in your ability to lift the ceiling fan. Gently life the ceiling fan and set the hanger ball with downrod into the hanger bracket. That is now attached to the outlet box.
• Make absolutely certain that the groove in the ball is lined up with the tab on the mounting bracket. Be sure not to pinch the wires between the hanger ball/down rod and the hanger bracket. If this step is not carefully followed it could result in electric shock or fire hazards.

Next you will connect the wiring to the fan. If you are not comfortable with this hire a licensed electrician. Also note that fans with light fixtures will require additional steps. To install a fan with a light fixture, refer to the owners manual for guidance.

• Be sure the electricity is turned off. You are not beginning the steps that could result in an electric shock if the power is not turned off.
• Find the green grounding wire from the ceiling fan and the green grounding wire from the mounting bracket to the grounding conductor supply. The grounding conductor supply may be a bare wire or a green wire. Connect the wires with wires the wire connector that was included.
• Connect the white wire from the fan motor to the to the supply white(neutral) wire using the wire connector included.
• Connect the black motor wire to the first hot wire and secure with an included wire connector.
• Connect the blue motor wire to the second hot wire and secure with an included wire connector.
• After all the wire connectors are secure, turn the leads up and gently push leads into the outlet box. Put white and green leads on one side of the outlet box and the black and blue leads on the other side.
• You can now screw on the fan blades.

Attaching the Canopy

• Align the tabs or screws on the mounting bracket with the slots in the canopy. Turn the canopy clockwise to lock the screws or tabs in the mounting bracket with the canopy.
• Place each screw in the canopy, but do not tighten completely until after you have secured each one.

Test Your New Ceiling Fan

• Turn your power back on.
• Use your pull chain to test if the fan is working correctly. Test it on all speeds especially high to ensure it does not wobble or produce unusual noises.
• If your fan wobbles check out our guide on how to balance a ceiling fan or our ceiling fan troubleshooting guide.
• If the ceiling fan works fine, lay back and relax in your more comfortable room.

Hopefully, this guide has helped you install your new ceiling fan and starting enjoying the breeze it produces.

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